It is official. The last airline in the US that still handed out free meals on domestic coach flights is going to serve its last freebie on June 30. The next day, Hawaiian Airlines will move to a buy-on-board program (except for the JFK flight) that aligns more closely with Alaska. I can understand why this is happening, the airline is handling it well, and some people may very well be overjoyed. But I just can’t help feeling like something small yet important is being lost here.
Over the years, Hawaiian scaled back its meals to what can best be described as a hot pocket on most flights. Even during the depths of COVID, those hot pockets solidered on. Here’s a photo from an October 2020 flight I took.
I have a weird love of generic, institutional foods, so this barbecue one actually hit the spot for me. Most people, however, didn’t have the same level of appreciation. So it wasn’t a big surprise when Tara Shimooka, spokesperson for Hawaiian who has been there since before the merger, told me that the top two complaints were that people wanted more variety and higher quality. That could happen, of course, but it couldn’t be free, so a great debate followed.
Tara told me that they had talked about this for years, even before the merger. But the switch to Alaska’s reservation system at the end of April was the big catalyst which enabled this change to be done far more easily.
To be clear, Hawaiian is being quite thoughtful about this. It is not just a cut-and-paste of the Alaska menu. They’ve hired Hilo-born Chef Sheldon Simeon to develop the menu, and it definitely has a local twist with things like corned beef hash + eggs and banana pancakes in the morning. Afternoons bring a teriyaki burger or cheeseburger mac and cheese, among others. You can see the whole list, and you’ll probably agree it looks good.
I have no doubt this will taste better. Yes, it costs the traveler extra, but it is a clear improvement for the price. So why am I conflicted about this at all, even when most of these flights are only five to six hours?
Before the merger, Hawaiian used to say how important it was to take care of its guests just like they were part of their ʻohana (family). When you invite someone into your home in the islands, you take care of them. Thatʻs why when you hear some say e komo mai to welcome you, itʻs not just a welcome. Itʻs an invitation to join, and it conveys a sense of belonging. It is more heartfelt and full of aloha than just saying “welcome.”
Youʻll also hear a lot of talk about hoʻokipa (hospitality) being integral to Hawaiian culture. Even in the press release announcing this change, Hawaiian says that this “remains central to the inflight experience.” But itʻs hard to get that same feeling when someone charges you to eat something. And itʻs especially hard when that has to be pre-ordered before the flight.
I know some people didnʻt like the hot pocket, but they still felt that warm surprise at being offered something at all. It fit with Hawaiianʻs overall idea that your vacation and immersion into Hawaiʻi began when you stepped on the airplane.
The new Hawaiian/Alaska clearly did not take this responsibility lightly, and they considered it at great length. I mean, just look at the length of that press release to see just how much effort they put into this. And, Tara reminded me, there are other pieces to hoʻokipa that still remain to create a different kind of experience for travelers.
In coach, Hawaiian will continue to offer free Koloa rum punch as a welcome drink. It will also give a free snack… which is not Biscoff. It looks like itʻll be Diamond Bakery mac nut shortbread cookies in the morning and Maui onion kettle chips in the afternoon. And there will still be those chocolate-covered mac nuts handed out as a “sweet treat” before arrival.
Those AlohaMacs have always carried conflicing emotions. When you get them flying into the islands, it is a thrilling reminder that youʻre almost there. But when you get them flying home, it is the sad last gasp of a memorable trip that is coming to a close.
With all of those elements remaining, and the new menu having a strong Hawaiian theme, I suppose Iʻm ok with this change. Plus, I’m told they served employees over 1,000 meals in testing and the mac salad was called out as being great. If you can put a good mac salad on the airplane, it’ll be hard to hate this change. I do have some flights this summer which will allow me to try it out. All that being said, the airline’s important link to Hawaiian culture means there will also be just a small something missing from that overall experience now that a free meal is no longer part of the package.
